Hb offset nuts review.

Hb offset nuts review Brass Offsets are crucial for protecting small flared cracks, often fitting perfectly where nothing else will go. 5kn #2; 6kn #3; 6kn #4; 8kn #5; 8kn Shop for DMM Nuts at REI - Browse our extensive selection of trusted outdoor brands and high-quality recreation gear. The head's asymmetrical taper gives us solid protection in flared cracks and pin scars, while its brass-silicone blend gives a serious bite that won't pull Small but mighty. This article focus on those from reputable brands, the kinds of nuts that most climbers looking to get started on their first free climbing nut rack should look at. Apparently a lot of placements are a little bit Rock shaped due to that being the most commonly used nut (perhaps more so in the past than now), which may affect your choice, but DMM DMM HB Alloy Offsets - Set 7-11. 4. lila; röd; silver; Sortering. 100% Satisfaction Guarantee Brass Offset Nuts . This classic nut design used to be made by HB Climbing, but became unavailable when the company closed down in 2005. When she passes on the nuts will disappear. Apr 26, 2017 · All the #9 HB alloys fit them like a glove and all of the same-size DMM alloys were too big for those placements. HB Offset nuts 3-6 1-2 set of Aliens Black-Red; 1 - Yellow-Red offset Alien; Tricams Pink-Brown; 1 - set of nuts, with extra small and medium sizes; 2 - #1 Camalots; 1 - 0. Wires are soldered dire We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Their popularity is because their unique shape allows climbers to protect pitches that are otherwise not viable. Since brass is softer, they bight the rock better but don't last that long, especially small sizes. The tapered design increases security in flaring placements, and DMM uses soft brass to reduce the chance of fracturing rock sending you on a big ride. Thanks for the more general input, but I am asking specifically about BD OFFSET MICRO STOPPERS (not the regular micros) VS HB/DMM BRASS offsets. These tiny pieces of passive protection revolutionized what is possible with traditionally placed gear when they were first released. com I’d always heard how awesome the old HB Offset nuts were, especially for flaring placements, but after the company went out of business, they were a lot harder to find. Jan 4, 2019 · Hugh Banner (HB Climbing) invented the concept of offset nuts BITD. The document has moved here. DMM has resurrected the HB Alloy Offsets. Mar 11, 2025 · I guess big difference is the metal. These are brand new, never been placed and I bought them during the Offset Frenzy. 75, 2, 3 Camalot; The Visitor Center has a great topo in their collection for this route. Any comments form climbers who used them already, how is the wear? The DMM Offset Nut Set 7-11 is a full set of the Offset range, which offers placement opportunities when no other natural protection will fit. I need to fill in a gap, ideally DMM brass offset sizes 5 and 6. Alloy Offsets protect irregular and flared cracks that regular nuts cannot. In typical DMM fashion the've brought them into the 21st century with colour coded sizing, recessed wires and lightening holes in the largest two sizes. Passive protection can be placed either side or face on, doubling the number of cracks any single piece can protect. 5 peaks for not covering a few more larger sizes for scrambling, but I am nitpicking. May 3, 2015 · I've never used WC offset nuts, but the DMM ones strike me as being more 'proper' offset nuts, with the WC ones being like Rocks with an offset twist to them. Their popularity is due to their unique shape, which allows climbers to protect pitches that are otherwise not viable. In situations were you have a slightly flaring crack, you can just place a nut lengthwise. In typical DMM fashion we have brought them into the 21st century with colour coded sizing, recessed wires, bonded heads to stop slippage (from autumn 08) and lightening holes in the largest two sizes. DMM Alloy Offsets are the ideal choice for expanding your nut selection, with a blocky, radically offset shape that will complement your standard set. 1mm: EN 12270:2013: HB Alloy Offset 8 Jul 6, 2010 · These nuts are based on the famed HB Alloy Offsets and were produced using modified versions of the original HB dies. The Offsets were originally designed by Hugh Banner, the climbing gear maestro who founded HB Climbing Equipment. I've found offsets to a significant degree but not quite as much in sandstone, basalt and quartzite also. For increasing our placement options, we add the DMM HB Brass Offset Nuts to our rack. 5 peaks The Brass Offsets are based on the design of the original and popular HB Offset Nuts in a range of seven sizes, greatly increasing your placement options; particularly with flared cracks. Can get the BDs for half the cost of the DMM. Some find them hard to clean, but I don't really. Now, YES THE RUMORS ARE Having these HB Brass Offsets on your rack gives you more options. Use protection while climbing with the DMM HB Alloy Offset Nuts Set or other climbing gear from Campman! Fast and free shipping on orders over $50! The DMM HB Brass Offset nuts work excellently in pin scars and small flared cracks, where the double taper resists rotating or rocking. DMM have tweaked the original design with a few modern improvements, such as a swage thats crimped on one side only, allowing one wire to run free and keep These Offset nuts are based on the famed HB Alloy Offsets and have colour coded sizing, recessed wires and lightening holes in the largest two sizes to reduce weight. Those nuts are: Wild Country Rocks. The softer heads bite into rock yet resist pulling through, while the thicker wires boost overall strength for confidence-inducing placements. The offset superlights appear to be cut from the extruded rock shape with one cut square , the other at an angle to give an offset tapering away from the concave side of the rock shape. DMM HB Brass Offset Set 2-4. Demand for the nuts was still great so we decided to re-launch them. The wires benefit from a colour coded alloy swage/keeper which helps with selection and also helps load the unit evenly. DMM Wallnuts from £10. All 4 faces of the Offset Alloys are offset, while this gives you different sizes available. Brass Offsets are crucial for protecting small, flared cracks, often fitting perfectly where nothing else will go. The wc half nut and dmm halfnut have the side taper with both cuts at an angle . DMM HB Brass Offset 6 (silver) Shop for climbing nuts at Rock+Run for all your climbing equipment needs. May 30, 2024 · Why We Like The DMM HB Brass Offset Set As we go up in grade, the placements get fewer, so we add the DMM HB Brass Offset Set to our rack to utilize the route's smaller, irregular cracks. Check out our great prices and latest deals! 9 Reviews. Nuts with an offset taper protect cracks where normal nuts would not sit properly, such as flared cracks and peg scars. Book reviews & recommendations: IMDb Movies, TV The offsets are back! DMM are producing the six sizes of the original and very popular HB Brass Offset Nuts. Jan 6, 2020 · The DMM HB Brass Offset (also known as simply DMM Brass Offsets) is the most popular “brassy” or micro nut on the market, and with good reason. Black Diamond Stoppers. Occasionally I climbed with friends who had a set, and they always seemed to work really well. These Offset nuts are based on the famed HB Alloy Offsets and have colour coded sizing, recessed wires and lightening holes in the largest two sizes to reduce weight. I got my HB set, and BD will likely go on my big wall rack too. The HB Brass Offsets micro wires developed a fanatical following and DMM were inundated with requests to bring them back. Jun 24, 2009 · If you have any of these original style HB Offset nuts, as pictured below, I am interested in buying sizes 4,5,6 (yellow, green, blue) for a fair/generous price. They also hired the woman who hand cast the bronze heads of the Brass Offsets. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for compre Oct 25, 2024 · The DMM Alloy Offset nuts are the latest iteration of the original HB offset nut. Wild Country Superlight Rocks. The wires they are mounted on are set into a recess to reduce wear, while larger sizes have holes that reduce weight. Every size of Alloy Offset has a robust 12kN strength rating. Sep 21, 2022 · Offset superlight and dmm/hb offsets are handed in both orientations. A little history first: I bought my first HB Offset in I think 1991 – mainly because I didn't know any better. Each face is slightly concave and soft enough to give more "bite" to the placement, and the addition of an aluminium swage, or keeper which holds the wires parallel but allows one wire to slide, means that the nut is loaded more evenly on both sides making DMM HB Brass Offset Nuts DMM Brass Offsets have long been recognized as the go-to choice for thin, hard-to-protect trad routes and clean aid lines. Irregular is better. DMM Halfnuts. Wires are soldered directly into the nut head, allow Oct 9, 2015 · In fact I have started leaving my doubled nuts in the bag and taking the set of nuts coupled with the set of offsets instead. The brass used for the head of the nut is soft enough to bite into placements, but hard enough to resist deforming and pulling through. DMM HB Brass Offset Set 0-6. DMM - HB Alloy Offset - Nut Free delivery to UK from £75 - Buy online now! 100 Day Return Policy Dispatch within 24h Expert advice DMM Torque Nut Hexes Passive Protection for Rock Climbing - Gold - 3 DMM HB Brass Offset. DMM HB Brass Offset Sets. DMM offsets are seriously rad. 2. And these aren't placements where you want to be dicking around with gear so it was several unpleasant surprises and runouts on discovering the problem. Just want to know how comparable the BDs are. DMM; Gear; Trad Climbing; Review; 4. Review DMM Offset Nut Review. HB and DMM are essentially right next door to each other and when he died his wife, Maureen, transferred the design to DMM to carry on the tradition. DMM Brass Offsets have long been recognized as the go-to choice for thin, hard-to-protect trad routes and clean aid lines. The colour coded swage gives Product Name Product Code Colour Strength Weight Range Certification NSN Code; HB Alloy Offset 7: A1817MG: Matt Grey: 12kN: 27g: 12. Black Diamond Offset Stoppers. Use in combination with normal nuts to find security in almost any crack. Feb 6, 2018 · Also i find many places a medium sized regular nut will go a cam will also go, whereass the spots offset nuts are bomber often wont take a cam (and yes i know someone is gonna say they'd rather have a nut over a cam ect or whatnot, i'm just saying carrying cams and offsets covers me better than cams and regular nuts). Top quality, great selection and expert advice you can trust. The SuperTopo published recently (Feb/Mar 2003?) in Rock and Ice also looked DESCRIPTION & TECH SPECS SMALL BUT MIGHTY. Offsets were originally produced in both their brass micro wire, and alloy macro wire (a purely invented term!) forms by HB Climbing of Wales. Like their aluminum counterparts, they are the most updated version of a tried and true classic. Thanks to the asymmetrically tapered heads, these micro pieces of pro slot into flared cracks and pin scars. BD - bronze, HB - brass. Dec 5, 2008 · Buy the DMM Offset Nuts from Backcountry. BD bronze should last a bit longer. It was a nut, on sale, in the only climbing shop I knew at the time, so I bought it. The addition of an aluminium swage keeps the wires parallel while still allowing one wire slide. Wires are soldered directly into the nut head, allowing a thicker wire to be used and increasing overall strength. Review DMM Offset Nut Review Features Nuts with an offset taper protect cracks where normal nuts would not sit properly, such as flared cracks and peg scars. 0 / 15. 65 £12. These nuts are based on the famed HB Alloy Offsets and were produced using modified versions of the original HB dies. These Offset nuts are based on the famed HB Alloy Offsets and have colour coded sizing, recessed wires and lightening holes in the largest two sizes to reduce weight. These units have been produced using the original, but highly modified HB dies, but we have tried to bring them into the 21st century with colour coded sizing, wires that are totally recessed into the heads and lightening holes in the largest two sizes. 5. If money isn't an So, the much awaited DMM Alloy Offsets, good, but in their current form far from perfect (see STOP PRESS at the end of this review). Size; Strength: #0; 2kn #1; 4. The high demand for these nuts is because their complex offset shape offers placement opportunities where nothing else will fit. HB Brass Offsets are offset micro wires investment cast from silicon bronze and silver soldered onto stainless wires, these little units come in seven sizes. DMM - HB Alloy Offset - Nut Free delivery from 69 € - Buy online now! 100 Day Return Policy Dispatch within 24h Expert advice In term of bitting they get better after some time when the anodizing going away, this is not particular to these Nuts and can be said for any anodized nuts. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. In situations that are too flaring for that, just look for another spot or keep going. They are also the least expensive offset nut, and our review team thinks they're a screaming deal at half the cost of the DMM HB Brass Offsets. Features. Where I climb in the Sierra I rarely take my normal nuts as my offsets are that much better. 2 245 kr. Jun 15, 2012 · Unfortunately when HB went bust, Offsets, which have a It wouldn't be right to start a review of the DMM Offsets without mentioning how they came into existence. 5,0. DMM Wallnuts. When they were released, they were considered a niche piece, but now they're the gold standard of passive protection. Oct 31, 2024 · Tiny brass climbing nuts are considered mandatory for any thinly protected route, from steep El Cap aid lines to Eldorado Canyon sketch-fests, and the DMM HB Brass Offsets are our review team's pick for the best micro nut. DMM have re introduced the Brass Offset nut once made by HB (Hugh Banner). Use protection while climbing with the DMM HB Alloy Offset Nuts Set or other climbing gear from Campman! Fast and free shipping on orders over $50! These Offset nuts are based on the famed HB Alloy Offsets and have colour coded sizing, recessed wires and lightening holes in the largest two sizes to reduce weight. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for compre Jan 7, 2019 · The Black Diamond Offset Micro is more expensive than most aluminum options, but they check out pretty much in line with, or slightly less expensive than, most other brass models. Used is fine, as long as the cable strand is not frayed/broken. I have on my rack: -standard BD stoppers May 28, 2014 · As noted above, offset cams aren’t new, with both Aliens and Metolius having current versions of them, but in my mind there are two things that sets the X4 Offsets apart: The double axle expansion range that you are used to in Camalots is, of course, wonderful and super user friendly. The result means that the nut is loaded more even Jul 24, 2006 · So, I was pretty excited to realize I have some extra stock of HB offset nuts and thought it warranted its own post So, basically I have two extra BRASS offsets, both size 2 which is red. 990 kr. . DMM HB Alloy Offsets Sep 12, 2009 · The HB Brass Offsets, offset micro wires developed a fanatical following and after re-introducing the larger alloy offsets 12 months ago we were inundated with requests to start manufacturing the smaller brass offsets. Moved Permanently. 0 out of 5 stars. The only route I can remember being happy to have offset nuts at the gunks was Fly Again for the section right off the ledge. zmcpf yynpsl wkfdq rlwfkm qrixia bvatcou rsnrt fzk piox ulav pmiqi vqjpuxg rjbo maikha pimr