Cordelette quad anchor The quad is a favorite of recreational climbers and guides alike because it’s sturdy and easy to set up. Although I am curious about what around here thinks. The three piece quad is a good option if you prefer a self equalizing system over a pre-equalized one like the cordelette rig. I spend some time considering 6mm or 7mm for anchor cordelette (I selected the ticker). Longer ones (such as the 20 footers that some people recommend) are too cumbersome for me, and I find that it takes too much fussing around while breaking them down from the anchor and re-racking them onto my harness. Use a quad anchor, and put two opposite and opposed carabiners on each pair of the quad strands. e. ), the anchor will get 1x the force of the falling climber. I use a 240 centimeter sling for trad anchors and it works for many different types of anchors as well as being lighter than the same amount of cord. Use a figure 8 or 9 as your masterpoint to facilitate easier untying. 5 to 18kn (although I believe 18 to be a type for 8mm). A cordalette will stand up to edges better, in case you are wrapping horns or boulders for your anchor. The only time I would take cordelette is if I'm in a more adventurous area and I may have to cut my cord to make rap anchors on the descent. For gear anchors, the quad will be tricky as you usually have 3 pieces in your anchor (meaning you have to tie two pieces of protection together to end up with two clip-in points for your quad). This video shows how to build a quad anchor and all the different details of when to use it and how it can be modified. However, this anchor type will not readjust itself if a piece fails or if you misjudged the direction of pull. Looking at the equalette, I don't see how you do that without doing something really awkward. Aug 30, 2017 · I recently bought a 100 meter spool of 6mm cord because it was on sale and I leave so much of it as rappel anchors. This setup is for 3 anchor points. Reply reply Fancy-Possession1368 Now you're ready to climb! Before you make your way up a route, attach your pre-built quad to your harness gear loops but don't lock the carabiners. 6 mm cord is dramatically less strong than 7 mm. The document has moved here. Aug 4, 2021 · The quad anchor is a popular choice, but usually requires a 180 cm doubled sling or bulky cordelette. Aug 16, 2021 · It’s simple to build and visually inspect, redundant, and provides some level of equalization. You can use the quad anchor to set up a top rope. After climbing to the top of a route, you will secure your pre-built quad to the permanent anchors on the rock wall. Nov 27, 2018 · Move over, old school cordelette-tied-in-one-huge-loop. This is a static equalization anchor. Mar 13, 2016 · I've never liked the 'Pre Equalized Anchor; AKA Cord-o-lette, instead opting for a version of the two-point self-equalizing, sliding X anchor backed up with a third independent anchor using sewn spectra slings. Aug 11, 2018 · In a nutshell: Can a 240cm dynex runner (~8 feet loop) replace my 7mm cordelette for most anchor setups? I. Cord Materials Apr 13, 2020 · This is why anchor-building is a little different from some other climbing skills — it’s less a formula, and more a set of tools you can use to solve problems. For comparison, PMI 7mm is rated at 10. Jul 11, 2016 · The quad is great for bolted belays as it is fast, allows for some movement of the master point, and gives you more room in the master point. It's sold by the foot or in sections: 20- or 30-foot sections are common lengths. Feb 16, 2019 · In the video above the instructor is showing how to make a quad with three pieces. if it is, you did something else very wrong. Dec 7, 2023 · To make a quad, you have several options of materials and length. For my shorter cordelettes, I use a 4. If this piece popped, the other pieces would be shock-loaded, and the whole anchor could fail. For rock climbing, consider 5 to 7 meters of 7 mm cord. Dec 30, 2015 · Tying a couple of 120 cm 18mm nylon runners into a quad would seem to be about the strongest way to have a perfectly equalized, minimally extending toprope anchor without having to do anything other than clip it in on arrival. Here’s I use cordellettes myself, though not as much as I used to. In this video Given the worst-case scenario for each anchor type (partial anchor failure resulting in extension for Sliding X, off-axis loading resulting in zippering of pieces in a Cordelette), as well as identical theoretical anchors and forces for each comparable setup, which is stronger? Someone good with physics, and a little free time, should be able . In a three-piece quad, only the component on an arm by itself (A) can cause an extension if it fails. ATC in guide mode, Grigri clipped directly to the anchor, etc. Using the rope for the anchor is great for swinging leads, but for block leading, I prefer some other type of anchor. Jan 13, 2022 · Creating Rigging with a Cordelette: When rigging an anchor on gear—whether cams, stoppers, or even pitons—a cordelette can be very effective, particularly if it hasn’t been tied into a loop. Jun 7, 2018 · Jokes aside, a dyneema quad properly coiled is definitely smaller and lighter than a 6mm cordalette. This can shock-load the remaining piece(s). Obviously that opens up its own efficiency issues and sucks if the anchor is complicated. long section of seven- to eight-millimeter Perlon accessory cord and use a double fisherman's knot to tie the cord into one big loop. Yup, that's how it works. Step 2 : Grab the loops at the bottom and pull them all tightly together letting the strands slip through your fingers so that they come together at one central point. Jun 7, 2024 · Traditional quad anchor rigged with 7mm cordelette. You can easily store either on your harness. As for the argument that you can't make a trad anchor, it's pretty straight forward if you treat the open quad sling the same as a big loop of cord. What if you don't have that gear with you? Here's an alternative: Simply use a pair of 120 cm slings. If you do a redirected belay (i. You MIGHT run into odd scenarios where you can't use the quad just because of positioning or whatever. I hear a lot of people use quads for single pitch sport, and I do think it is a bit overkill. - The quad will extend slightly should either anchor point fail. You can use this anchor for basically anything now without having to worry each climb. Cordelettehttps://rockclimb. Apr 7, 2021 · The standard quad anchor works great for many anchor setups where you have two reliable bolts or ice screws. Oct 15, 2021 · Whether you are into trad climbing or sport climbing, the quad is a solid anchor for a variety of climbs: . One more thing to note: belaying direct off of the anchor (i. We built a full quad anchor out of 6mm accessory cord that is only 6kn strong and we're getting 32kn. Feb 2, 2025 · Types and Methods of Self-Equalizing Anchor. Nov 2, 2017 · In this example we have two solid pitons at the end of a multi-pitch climb. Generally I'll carry one or two that are about 15 to 17 feet in length. AMGA (American Mountain Guides Association) Instructor Jeff Ward explains how to build a quad anchor. ) The anchor’s “legs” (the lengths of material clipped to each bolt) should form an angle that’s less than 60 degrees, which minimizes the load on the bolts. Mar 1, 2018 · Yes, Dyneema is fine to use for anchor material. Using this redundant and full-strength clip-in spot keeps the master point free for the belay device and for your follower (or followers) to clip into. Multipitch = quad with a quad length dyneema sling and more biners. This helps ensure that you're not fumbling to unlock them at the top of your climb. Clip or thread the cord through each component, then tie off the cord short so there’s just enough material to hang beneath the lowest piece of Moved Permanently. - Since the quad needs to be doubled up, it is difficult to equalize anchors where the placements are far apart. Clip pieces, pull strands down, tie masterpoint. But if you are using a quad for only two pieces you just double the cordelette and tie an overhand on each side to create the pocket. belaying with an ATC clipped to your harness, rope going to the master point, back down to climber), then the anchor will get Moved Permanently. The idea is that a lead fall simply doesn't impact the belayer the same way that a lead fall impacts him or her in a normal setting. Oct 29, 2023 · My suggestion would be start with a cordelette because it is cheap, durable, and versatile. , a quad anchor on two bolts, or a standard 3-piece gear anchor w/ master point, or wrapped around a tree? I am typically the rope gun, and often bring two followers up at the same time on separate ropes using a reverso/ATC-guide. After deploying the Mini-Quad it takes seconds to add the Black Diamond 1 C4 Camalot Ultralight and clip it to a leg of the Mini-Quad making this a 3 point ERNEST anchor. Left: Unequalized anchor. Step 1: Loop the cordelette through each anchor in the fashion shown above. 7 kn. Many climbers bring around 20 feet of cord for building and equalizing anchors, but these cordelettes can be a hassle to carry on your harness. rated strength is not the same concept as durability in an anchor, the most important aspect is not a single component's rated strength. However, I personally prefer a quad length 10cm sling over my cordelette 95% of the time for building anchors because it is lighter and less bulky. It’s great for when distributing forces between pieces is a high priority. R. This is a simple way of creating a self-equalizing anchor wherein it connects two anchor points that adjust depending on the direction of the pull. Access to the top of routes will vary, as will the available anchor points. Related: Learn This—Tricams 101; Illustration: Supercorn. 5mm. Best Situation To Use The Quad Anchor To equalize two bomber anchor points such as a two-bolt anchor. Nov 18, 2016 · It’s best as the lowest piece in the anchor. Cordelette Anchor: Using a cordelette is a very popular way to connect two, three or more anchor points to create static equalization. Mar 3, 2025 · The quadalette, aka the quad anchor offers a strong, fast, redundant, and simple anchor. Carrying a cordelette that’s “open”, or untied, can be more versatile. It's clear that the people chiming in with learning to build the anchor with the rope didn't actually read your post. To make a cordelette, take an 18-20 ft. To tie this anchor, you’ll want a 6+ foot anchor sling or cordelette. This can shock load an anchor dangerously, which is why it is important to limit the potential for extension as much as possible. Sliding-X Method. Well, here’s the modern iteration of that idea, in a much lighter and more compact package. Nothing really wrong with it, just big and bulky. 1. It's self equalizing, provides separate clip-in points Quad Cordelette Anchor vs Quickdraw Anchor Hey guys, I've been leading in the gym for a while now and am just getting into climbing outside. Mike shows how to build a quad anchor with 7mm cordelette. (While you can use a longer cordelette, many people find that a 180 cm or maybe 240 cm Dyneema sling, that’s 10 or 11 mm and fairly new, to be a more compact and lightweight option. Routes with two-bolt belays: Since the quad anchor system helps equalize weight between two anchor points, climbers in sport climbing or ice climbing can use it when there are two reliable, built-in bolt anchors or ice screws that they can use as a top rope. I realize there are lighter, less bulky options, but aside from that I don't see any drawbacks. What is t Feb 10, 2020 · You can use an equalette/cordelette to build a TR system out of traditional pro, with caution. Quad anchors are mainly used for sp Apr 13, 2017 · With a cordelette, we accomplish that by using three locking carabiners, which can be distributed between the master point and the shelf. While there's nothing inherently wrong with this, it is big and bulky. Although you can create both a 2-piece quad and a 3-piece quad from the same cordelette, I recommend using a shorter cordelette for bolted stances (those which usually have two bolts) and a longer cordelette for trad anchors. Keep it simple, don't worry about the quad and use the correct length sling for the application. This simple setup meets SERENE, can change directionality, arms can be used to personally anchor into, can hold 2 tie-in points with A self-distributing anchor like a quad will extend if all the components on an arm fails. E. Clip 1 locking carabiner onto each of the 3 anchor points. Before I move on to other uses of the Mini-Quad I feel the need for a disclaimer here. In this article, we explain how to set up one type of versatile top-rope anchor: the quad. With an appreciation for this reality, many climbers gravitate toward “self-equalizing” anchoring systems. PLEASE READ: In this video we show you the basic cordelette anchor, used most commonly for top roping and belay stations on multipitch. 5 m (15 ft) piece of 6 mm Sterling PowerCord. To illustrate these principles once more, let’s take a look at another classic anchor tool: our cordelette. 6mm appears to be rated around 6-7. Your quad anchor could be a large length of cord (usually 7mm) tied in a big loop cordelette style, or the new school “mini quad” typically made with a 180 cm runner, as we cover in this tip here. Sep 21, 2018 · If you choose to carry a cordelette, the first questions are: what diameter, and how long? For snow climbing or glacier travel, consider 4 meters of 6 mm cord. Then clip 3 of the four strands (so, if one anchor failed the quad doesn’t simply slide through your carabiner at the power point). Tying a cordelette for a quad. The quad will self-equalize for both of them without needing any adjustment. Placing context with the equalette anchor: it is used for multi-pitch systems, as you stated. Jun 30, 2023 · A strong anchor thus is only as strong as the component that is holding most of the weight most of the time. In a fall, most of the force on this anchor would impact the piece in the upper left. Magic X and quad configurations have become popular, but their ability to self-adjust to variable load direction is not perfect. I personally prefer #2. May 15, 2015 · cordelette that's been doubled over multiple times. Edit: Can the anonymous AMGA Safety Captains explain the votes? Edit 2: This is if there is no sharp rock in the vicinity, and I use newer gear. We'll also cover cleaning (removing) the quad anchor after everyone is done climbing. I'll often leave the ground with an un-tied Mar 15, 2022 · Building a quad requires either a cordelette at least 14 feet in length (6mm nylon minimum or 5. To make this: First, carabiners should be connected to one sling at each anchor point. The Cordelette A three-piece anchor tied with a cordelette. Nov 15, 2021 · Essentially a fixed-point belay is a lead belay directly off the anchor, as opposed to the more standard belay technique of operating a device off one's harness. I have always considered 6mm to be too weak for quad anchor/cord-a-lette material, however, this manufacturer rates it at 9kn. Modern sewn slings are a better choice. IMO having a permanent cordelette quad is as important to a rack as a set of cams. How long should the cordelette be, and is there a "best" diameter? I have seen anywhere from 14ft to 30ft for length and that a minimum diameter is around 5. The original material, suggested by John Long in his book “Climbing Anchors”, was a cordelette. The Quad. Cord comes in diameters from 1mm up to 9mm, sometimes greater. anchor when constructing a gear belay 2) Tie a ‘Quad’ for 2 piece belays and top ropes 3) Create an extended rappel with 3rd hand Autoblock 4) Escape a belay 5) Ascend a rope 6) Tie a “rescue spider” for tandem rappels 7) Cut it up for bail anchors 8) Lower a climber past a knot or rappel past a knot 9) Construct a Nov 30, 2017 · How does the follower/belayer that isn't leading clip in and stay clipped to an anchor if the leader needs to deconstruct the anchor to climb? AndrewArroz wrote: retie the anchor with follower's end of the rope. N. 30 meters seems like a lot of material for an anchor considering most ropes for climbing are 60-70m. What are some advantages? Fairly inexpensive (especially compared to a 240 cm Dyneema sling, which some climbers prefer over a standard cordelette) Dec 18, 2014 · On a standard cordelette anchor built with at least two attachment points, it sits right above the knot. Chart of results is at the end of the video👉 Learn Step By Step Guide To Set Up Top Rope Anchors With A Cordelette . I am purchasing a set of Djinn Axess quickdraws and already have everything to construct a cordelette anchor. Right: Equalize it. Note that the quad will extend slightly should either side fail. This is useful if you want to top rope two different routes which are immediately next to each other, but share the same anchor. You typically set up a cordelette with 3 anchor points. A weakness not touched Sep 30, 2019 · Use a quad anchor, and put two opposite and opposed carabiners on each pair of the quad strands. Suspect lockers are bad anchor lockers unless you're belaying at the anchor. If you move into multi pitch and alpine you may want to swap it for a 240 which is more compact. If all you have available is "four pieces of pro" for a TR anchor, then you can solely use the equalette/cordelette while exercising caution. Two extendable draws are my preferred setup (in case the anchor bolts are set wide or are placed vertically or offset). Oct 24, 2018 · Many climbers consider the cordelette a standard piece of gear, as it lets you quickly connect two or more points of protection into a redundant, non-extending, and fairly well distributed anchor. After reading this article, I am seriously thinking about changing to the Quad anchor, Cord is useful for creating custom-length slings, such as a cordelette, that can be used in anchor construction or in friction hitches for rappels and aid climbing. This provides redundancy in case one of the anchor points fails. 5kn 7mm is between 13. video-----FLAT OVERHAND FOR CORDELETTEA Flat Overhand is not as strong as a Double Fisherman’s knot to tie a cordelette in a 1) S. In leading, that is definitely a big anchor, but I personally don’t really ever use a quad when leading/on multi pitch. Assessing and mitigating risk during anchor setup, even if you have a trail to the top, is vital. 5mm tech cord) or a quadruple-length sling. If you tie a small loop in each end, also known as “bunny ears”, you can reach placements that are farther apart, carry a shorter amount of cord, and rig an alpine block and tackle. rated strength is NOT even close to a direct measure of safety, since an anchor is a system and no single component should ever be subjected to the breaking strength of a cord. Jul 6, 2014 · On the other hand, my fairly substantial if still utterly unscientific observation is that inexperienced and some not-so-inexperienced climbers can suffer from cordelette-induced tunnel vision, building an anchor that will accommodate the rather limited range of a cordelette rather than constructing the best available anchor, whose placements I have been using the "sliding X" and "equalette" anchor systems but am looking to invest in a cordelette to build a quad anchor with for extended periods of top roping. I’ll use draws or slings, depending on the situation, or just clove-hitch with the rope itself. fuz jol lxewyv kexicx xxyy vec hwdeu qsh icwml hmbkc sujtqvh rrxsu zynkh egjfjo qzzyd